Capo-Theta Tao

Holy goiabas it is moist in Brazil. At the moment it loves to mix periods of complete sunshine and rainforest downpour. It gets more and more beautiful here though with every passing day. I know most people who know me will not believe this, but I am coming to know this town like the back of my hand. Everyday I take a public van to the square of Santo Antonios, walk to portuguese class, then anthropology, then we have lunch somewhere in the town before either dance or capoeira classes and research. Today was the first day of capoeira, and it was damn good fun.We were huddled into a room with the wooden windows flappying open and closed as it poured outside, the rain echoing off of the tin roof with rain dripping through the holes. Capoeira is such a beautiful thing to witness. You can never truly wrap your mind over whether it is a dance or fight or what, in reality it is everything. It combines dance moves with martial arts rooting from the African and indigenous populations during colonial times. But we were taught basic moves and were able to practice, which as you throw kicks about your partners head, you cannot help but smile and realize its all about rythm and syncing with your partner. If you walk around the University of Washington campus during the spring and you can see some people practicing capoeira. And for the inner nerd inside me, Eddie from tekken was a badass at capoeira. The hut where we learned reminded me of the karate kid. I have expected Jackie Chan or my new sensae to come and start catching the flies that were landing on my face with some chopsticks and explaining life through elaborate metaphors. Alas there was just a goat named Emanuel who let me pet him. I will share more another day, because Allisson is waiting for me to finish. Oh! We are going to be on the Bahian radio soon! And yes... in portuguese. Legao!

Hot Damn!

Hot Damn! And I mean that literally. It is flipping hot here, I am getting quite use to this constant feeling of being sweaty. It is amazing here in Santo Antonio, no one speaks any english except our hosst brothers and sisters. I am staying with such an amazingly nice guy named Allisson. He is unbelievably intelligent! I would not be suprised if he started using english words I did not even know (yeah yeah yeah... i know that would not mean much, whatever). But it is frightening being here with such a poor grasp on protuguese, I really wish I knew more, and it is frustrating i do not but I am learning. Everyone is so kind. I am in my host brothers friends house, just had lunch with her family and her host sister (who is in my class), but the generosity and humanity is truly unparallel. It is such an amazind adventure and I am so touched to be able to share an experience and converstaion with everyone here. We have portuguese class everyday at nine, we will be working on our research projects come tomorrow, which mine is suppose to be a comparative analysis of the public and private hospitals in Santo Antonio. We shall see if the lagnuage barrier can trump that, but who knows. I believe this week we start our Capoeira classes, so yes Max... I will become herra buffer than you. I miss you all, and hope by the next time you read my blog, it will all be in portuguese. Okay... Maybe a paragraph... Or a sentence. Yeah...

Lucky lucky Gringos!

Lucky lucky gringos! I and seven other students got to participate (well... Witness is a better term) in an Cadomble ritual. Cadomble is a religion combining African and Christian spiritual beliefs that's home is rooted in Cachoeira. When the Portuguese began to colonize Brazil, they brought slaves over in order to produce and export native goods. Along with the spread of Christian beliefs, indigenous and African religious and cultural beliefs began to mingle. Cadombleh finds most of it's roots from a Nigerian religion called Ifa. It colonial times, it was illegal to practice Cadomble, as well as other African influenced practices such as Capoeira. It is a an amazing testament to spirituality and beauty of Cadomble that it still exists today. The punishment for practicing was 400 lashings, which ultimately was always death. Today it faces opposition from the evangelical population in Brazil, but is a powerful symbol of the beauty of both Cachoeira and Brazil's history. 
As we hiked among the back trails in the more residential area within Cachoeira, we could hear the drums echo. When we reached the house where the procession took place, we were ushered onto some seats along the walls of the house. Green leaves decorated the floor, and grass hung from beams on the ceiling. Four dancers danced in a counter-clockwise circle as three drummers and bells provided the rhythm for the dancing. Cadomble has strong ties to nature, as one could see the leaves and grass decorating the entire home. Often cats would enter and exit the door of the home sporadically throughout the procession. At one point, a humming bird even hovered above my head, watching the procession before landing in their nest dangling from the ceiling. What we witnessed was a festival for Ogum. The drums provide rhythm for the dancers to dance in response to the beat and when the Orishas feel comfortable and ready they move through some of the dancers, putting the individuals in a trance that leaves them moving and yelling to the drums that are communicating to the specific Orishas. It was unbelievable to experience such a beautiful tradition that not many outsiders get to see, especially the specific ritual an group we saw inside of Cachoeira. Man, it was unbelievable, I felt so lucky. 
After that, we got to run through the streets in celebration of Christ rising at midnight. It was another amazing experience to see all the people of Cachoeira running through the streets clapping their hands and fist pumping (in less of a Guido way) and truly being joyous. Even not sharing the same religious ties or beliefs, it was hard not to run and dance and embrace the joy of the symbolism. Cachoeira was truly an amazing experience, full of history and culture and people I will never forget. I'm here in Santo Antonio at a hotel for the night before we meet our host families tomorrow, so more stories, saved for another day. 

Holy Batatas!

Holy batatas. It has been so beautiful here in Cahcoeira. It has such a rich culture and history, that we've only been able to skim the surface. Our professor Margaret (or as the locals call her, Margaretchi) has been sharing with us the deep history of Cachoeira. Last evening, being good Friday, we went to the convent/church for the beginning of a ceremony devoted to the death of Christ. I could only catch glimpses of the chanting and prayers with in the gold adorned walls of the church, before the precession commenced outside of the walls. Next thing I know, women in morning dresses followed by six priests in gowns, and four men holding up a bed with a Jesus figure bloodied and laying covered by a cloth surrounded my military men, then a mother Mary stature following close behind. The procession lasted at least a couple hours, walking Jesus around the town, switching between two walking bands playing music and chants of "Jesus Christ, our savior, is dead." there had to be almost a couple thousand bodies walking among the streets in somber moods of respect, and people watching outside their windows. Will the story of good Friday is quite somber, the procession involving Easter sunday involving Christ arising, is suppose to be quite joyous, which I've been told involved running and dancing at midnight these evening. Only time will tell! It is amazing how important religion is for brazilians, whether it be for hope or faith, the extreme sense of community is astounding and lovely, the root of religion shines through. So I have only been called gringo once, and have been stared at constantly. I got some havianas to try to fit in, but my Latin Brethren haven't welcomed me as one of their own quite yet. But Cachoeira is beautiful, with views of the market right outside my window, and buildings and trees sporadically decorating the hillsides, it's marvelous. More to come about celebrations and beer, now don't y'all worry.

Greetings from Brazil!

If there was a cute little postcard to go along with that greeting it would be my gringo self waving among the streets of Cachoeira in Bahia Brazil. It is absolutely beautiful here. Ever since the drive from the airport in Salvadora to the city of Cachoeira there is so much green and so much beauty. May be that is why Brazilians are such a vibrant and happy people because they surround themsevles constantly with nature. The importance of nature in America was realized around the mid ninteenth century hence the contruction of city parks such as Central Pàrk in New York and Golden Gate in San Francisco. But everyone has been extremely kind here thus far. I have had some old men make jokes and give me high fives and hugs as well as many weird looks at my shoes and clothings. Guess Pàul will have to get him some thongs (sandals... you all with your dirty minds). It is... HOT. For those who are around me constantly I know I sweat constantly which is why I am embarrassed already sweating in Seattle compáred to here. Yet it has been póuring which is quite refreshing. I will report more about my adventures for all I have yet to accomplish is to make it here (insert comma because I cannot find mine on my keyboard) drink a couple of beers and wander. It is beautiful though. Canñot wait to see more. Love and miss you all.

well here goes nothing

Alriiiiiight, so I'm still figuring out how this shindig works. I am making this little blog so I can best keep in touch with everyone, and let you know how all is. So... what adventure is Paul partaking in one may ask? I am studying in Brazil for a month with some wonderful University of Washington students and professors. We are traveling to Salvador, Bahia, San Antonio de Jesus and Sao Paulo. My Portuguese is not too bad, around the level of a two year old. I can basically point at things and attempt at the right word. Yep, pretty soon my niece Paula (well, more commonly known as Marley) will be speaking better English than me Portuguese. After that, I am traveling to Borneo which is in Indonesia and is the third largest island in the world with some of the largest biodiversity in the world. I will be doing an ethnoecological study, which is a fun word that can be explained below in a link by one of my teachers! Well I'm off to finish packing, but I wanted to create this blog so I can have some sense of communication with you all, because the love I have for you all is like my awkward arm hair, it's long and I can't help it being there, but I wouldn't change it for the world. I'll be flying to Salvador, Brazil tomorrow morning before most of you open your little sleepy eyes. So in the newly found words, I leave you with, "A sia saide e com licença, onde fica o banheiro?" (Cheers, and where is the restroom?)